Milford Sound vs Doubtful Sound: Which Fiord to Choose

The two fiords side by side

The real question: time, and a road

Both are fiords carved by ice, in the same national park, with steep walls and forest. What separates them is access. You can drive to the edge of Milford Sound; you cannot drive to Doubtful Sound. That one fact decides how many people you share it with, how long the day takes, and how much planning it needs.

DOC calls Doubtful Sound "the Sound of Silence", and says it is quieter and more remote than its famous neighbour because it has no direct road. Milford, by contrast, draws over one million visitors a year. If you have one day and a car, Milford is the easy answer. If you have time and want the quiet, Doubtful is worth the effort.

The case for Milford Sound

Milford gives you choice. Day cruises run from 1 hour 40 minutes to 2 hours 15 minutes, for $93 to $116. You can come on a big coach, a van of 15, a plane or a helicopter, or sleep on board. The peak rising 1,692 m from the water is the view on the postcards.

• Road access, so you can drive yourself and pay only for the cruise.
• Flights from Queenstown, with a landing at the airstrip.
• Short walks on the road in, and a day walk on the great walk.
• A night on the water, on Milford Sound overnight cruises.

The catch is the crowds, and the length of the road from Queenstown. Both are manageable: sail early or late, and start from Te Anau. How to plan it is in our guide to visiting, and the route itself in our guide to the cruise route.

The case for Doubtful Sound

Doubtful Sound is bigger and emptier. DOC describes it as one of the largest fiords, with three main arms, and it holds three of Fiordland's ten marine reserves. It is also home to one of the southernmost populations of bottlenose dolphins. Four walking tracks start from the hostel at Deep Cove.

Getting there is the whole adventure. DOC's easiest route is a boat from Pearl Harbour wharf in Manapouri, across the lake to West Arm, then a coach over the Wilmot Pass to Deep Cove. You book that in advance with a local operator. You can take your own vehicle across by barge, but you need a permit to drive the Wilmot Pass Road. We do not list a Doubtful Sound trip, so we cannot compare fares or lengths here; ask the operators directly.

Before you book one, ask these:

• Where does the day start, and what time do you need to be at the wharf?
• How long is the boat on the fiord itself, not counting the lake and the pass?
• Is lunch included, or should you pack your own?
• What happens if the weather stops the lake crossing or the pass?
• Will you be back in Te Anau the same evening?

What a day on each looks like

A Milford day from Te Anau is simple to picture. You drive or ride about two hours up the road, stop at the lakes and lookouts, spend around two hours on the water, and drive back. DOC allows eight hours for the round trip with a cruise. From Queenstown the same day is 12 to 14 hours, which is why so many people fly or stay a night in Te Anau.

A Doubtful day has more moving parts. You start at the wharf in Manapouri, cross the lake by boat, ride over the pass by coach, and only then reach the water at Deep Cove. You need to book the crossing in advance, and you cannot simply turn up with your car. Plan it as a full day, and ask the operator for the timings before you commit.

Costs you can plan for

On the Milford side we can give you real numbers. A cruise from the terminal is $93 to $116 a person, a day from Te Anau $157 to $192, and parking by the terminal NZ$10 an hour if you drive. A night on the water starts at $782 for a cabin of two. For Doubtful Sound, the fares depend on the operator you book with, and if you take your own vehicle you also need the barge and a permit for the pass road. Compare the Milford days on Milford Sound tours from Te Anau or read about the Te Anau day of walks and a small-boat cruise, the one we would pick for a walker.

Doing both

With two days in Te Anau, you can see both. Spend one on Milford: a road day from Te Anau runs $157 to $192 and takes 7 to 8.5 hours, or drive yourself and book a cruise. Spend the other on Doubtful, crossing from Manapouri. Doing Milford first gives you the famous view while you are fresh, and leaves the quieter fiord as the slower second day.

Short of time? Pick one. A night on the water at Milford is the other way to find some quiet. Teresa H. saw penguins and waterfalls from the Mariner. The monthly rain is on the weather page, and what lives in the water on the wildlife page.

Verdict by traveller

• One day, staying in Queenstown: Milford, by coach, van or plane.
• Driving yourself: Milford, with a cruise only and a stop at every lookout.
• Two days in Te Anau: both, Milford first.
• Want quiet above all: Doubtful, or a night on the water at Milford.
• Want to fly over the mountains: Milford; see Milford Sound scenic flights.
• Travelling with young children: Milford; the day is shorter and simpler. Read our family guide.

Julie C. took the coach from Te Anau and found the stops great but the rail crowded, so book early or late if photos matter. What else fits in a Te Anau stay is on the things to do page and the road in on our page about the road.

Milford days that start closer to both fiords

Milford Sound Coach & Cruise ex Te Anau Stunning Views with Lunch

A spacious coach from Te Anau, a nature cruise of up to two hours and a freshly made lunch. Bring your own child restraints.

From $192 per person

Check Availability

Milford Sound Mariner Overnight Cruise

An overnight cruise priced per cabin of up to two: an en suite cabin, dinner, breakfast, and kayaks or tender boats. Non-refundable.

From $782 per cabin (up to 2)

Check Availability

From Queenstown Milford Sound Cruise & Glass-Roof Coach Tour

A glass-roofed coach from Queenstown with free WiFi and a driver-guide, then a cruise of 1 hour 45 minutes on a spacious catamaran.

From $170 per person

Check Availability